Saturday, September 21, 2013
Florals for resort are expected, but Christopher Kane took a sci-fi approach to the blooms for his collection. Instead of the digital prints that have been popular for the past few seasons, Kane chose 3-D graphic renderings. The sweeping lines added a sense of delicacy to pieces, like this navy shift dress with its cobweblike bodice.
Valentino started off as a sedate collection of separates in subdued colors like navy and beige before becoming a neon scene. Incorporating technicolor camouflage, brightly hued dresses, and bold bags, the pieces were youthful and commanded attention. Toward the end, embroidered gowns were revamped by swapping normally sedate beading for eye-catching bits of hot pink, neon green, and acid yellow.
Over at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa remained true to the house's minimalist aesthetic while turning up the sex appeal using crop tops and bralettes, revealing generous amounts of waistline. For the more practical girl, slim suede dresses in emerald, black, and navy looked incredibly soft and luxurious, while the opening ostrich coat was truly opulent. Click ahead to marvel at every last bump.
After a decade of showing menswear in Milan, Burberry Prorsum returned to the U.K. today. Not a huge surprise from a British heritage label that already shows its womenswear in London, but still: Today’s light, informal show in the almost rural setting of Kensington Gardens showed how comfortable Christopher Bailey is on his home turf.
Especially since notable faces included Franca Sozzani, Hugh Dancy, Natalie Massenet, Serena Williams, Suki Waterhouse, Shenae Grimes, Josh Beech, the “offensively attractive” Douglas Booth — and, of course, David Gandy, who doesn’t seem to have missed a single show this week.
Then there were the clothes. The "Writers and Painters" collection, inspired by Alan Bennett and David Hockney, played with a cheerful palette of primary colors and a relaxed, schoolboy feel. For instance, the first look was a blue shirt, skinny red tie, green sweater, and gray trousers, worn with red deck shoes and a slouchy, soft camel coat. The models had disheveled hair, were clutching drawstring leather bags, and looked like the cutest boys on campus.
Of course, there were appearances of the famous Burberry trenchcoat, but it was in more casual, less structured territory than in previous collections (especially compared to last season’s iridescent and metallic ones). There were also hooded raincoats in yellow, blue, and green; lightweight snoods covered in large polka dots; and lots of playfully bright sunglasses.
It felt like the game-changing arrival of a new Burberry style crush. At the very least, Hockney and Bennett, ages 75 and 79, respectively, should be feeling very fashionable.
Behold, a ready-made answer for those who own a Linux-powered fruit machine but who are still looking for new ways to use it. It's a simple media center starter kit, fresh out and shipping today, which makes it easy to hook your Raspberry Pi up to an HDMI display and use it to play video or music from the internet or your home network through the wonders of XBMC. Known simply as "XBMC Solution," it consists of the Raspbmc software on a bootable SD card (this is an all-in-one install that combines XBMC with a lightweight Linux distro), a rechargeable RF controller with a small keyboard and touchpad to aid navigation (it's generic, unbranded, and even has a "Win" key, but it works fine), plus Ethernet and HDMI cables in case you don't have any going spare. Read on for more.Raspberry Pi XBMC Solution See all photos 14 Photoswhen.eng("eng.galleries.init")
The kit isn't wildly different from those you can pick up on eBay, or that could be gathered together more cheaply from constituent parts (Raspbmc being entirely free and open source), but it comes with Element14's promise that it'll work smoothly and it's designed to be up and running within minutes. That's something we can vouch for, at least -- once we'd allowed the application and OS to update themselves automatically over the web, it took just a few moments longer before we were playing FLAC music files off a USB stick, adding libraries from the network and checking on the weather. What's more, XBMC is a tinkerer's paradise in its own right, with plenty of add-ons to choose from, so the bundle's ease-of-use doesn't feel like it conflicts with Pi's underlying DIY philosophy. The kit will be available globally through Element 14, with a UK price of £45.99 -- and yes, that's a lot more than the little computer itself. Stay tuned for US pricing, and check out the gallery above to see exactly what'll come in the box.
Update: Newark Element14 is selling the bundle for $78 in the US, but its site lists just a handful of units in stock right now.
Update #2: We've just heard that the official US price is $49.99, so we're not sure what's up with the Newark listing.when.eng("eng.perm.init")
Although Nathan Bogle was one of the original co-founders of Rag & Bone's menswear line in 2004, he left shortly after it rose to prominence in 2006 and is now barely a footnote in its history. In an interview with the Aesthete, he declines to say much about his departure from the brand, but admits that he "was kind of burned" and took several years off before figuring out his next move: launching a new men's line, Jardine, named after his great-grandfather.
The clothes themselves sound nice, with pared-down shirting, fitted pants, and chunky knits for fall, but the label's best ad is Bogle himself, who — in addition to being very cute — has worked as a sustainability advocate, chef, model, and designer, in that order. When he was in his twenties, he was discovered in Thailand by a French taxi driver, who gave him a list of modeling agencies and told him to give it a shot. (He was booked by Louis Vuitton and Armani before he retired.) During the six years between Rag & Bone and Jardine, he went to culinary school, worked in advertising, and even tried his hand at screenwriting.
He eventually plans to expand Jardine to womenswear, but in the meantime, his men's stuff is well worth a look ... as are pictures of Bogle in general.
Balenciaga is reportedly suing its former designer, Nicolas Ghèsquiere, for "breach of duty of confidentiality," according to French business magazine Challenges. Their allegations supposedly stem from that interview Ghèsquiere did with System magazine back in April, in which he said he'd been "sucked dry" by the house before his departure last November, among other things:
Over the last two or three years it became one frustration after another ... There wasn't really any direction ... It was really that lack of culture which bothered me in the end. The strongest pieces that we made for the catwalk got ignored by the business people.
Reps for Balenciaga and its parent company, Kering, wouldn't comment on the lawsuit to British Vogue, but it is very common for outgoing employees to sign contracts saying they won't bad-mouth their former jobs. Et tu, Kristen Stewart?